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Tuesday, September 14, 2004
DO YOU KNOW WHAT THIS IS?
No it is not a hat!
It's a wimple. Yes it is. Here, read this if you don't believe me...
wim·ple ( w¹m"p…l) n. 1. A cloth wound around the head, framing the face, and drawn into folds beneath the chin, worn by women in medieval times and as part of the habit of certain orders of nuns. 2. a. A fold or pleat in cloth. b. A ripple, as on the surface of water. c. A curve or bend. v. wim·pled wim·pling wim·ples v. tr. 1. To cover with or dress in a wimple. 2. To cause to form folds, pleats, or ripples. v. intr. 1. Archaic To form or lie in folds. 2. To ripple. [Middle English wimpel from Old English;... {copied from The American Heritage Talking Dictionary}
  
  
I told you so... and, when it's not worn as a hood, you can wear it as a scarf.
And if you're really daring, you can wear it as a tube top. Woo Hoo! Not my thing,  but you never know! 
Here's another one just a little dressier. I can't wait till it gets cold! 
Posted at 12:06 pm by Dot
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SO SIMPLE WIMPLE
copyright © 091404 Dot Matthews
Materials:
L hook for chain
K hook for pattern
ww yarn, 5 oz approximately
gauge: not important
Ch 90, join in 1st ch to form a ring. Be careful not to twist chain.
ROW 1: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 1, (sk 1 st, sc in next st, ch 1) around, join in first sc. (45 ch-1 spaces and 45 sc)
ROW 2: turn, (sc in ch-1 space, ch 1) around. Join in first sc. (45 ch-1 spaces and 45 sc)
ROW 3 through 57: repeat row 2. Fasten off and weave in ends.
Note 1: when turning your work, do not ch 1
Note 2: it's not really necessary to count rows, just continue until piece fits the way you like it.
TIP: If you're worried about the chain twisting, replace the beginning chain and row 1 with this... ch 91, sc in 2nd ch from hook, ch 1, sk 1 st, (sc in next st, ch 1, sk next st) across, join in first sc and continue with row 2. A simple stitch when you weave in ends will close the small gap that this will leave.
Posted at 11:35 am by Dot
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Wednesday, September 08, 2004
Some of my Blog Buddies have made buttons and/or graphics for me. I know they spent a lot of time creating these gifts and I want to show them off and make sure they know how much I appreciate them.
Sutty Girl made this for me awhile back. Real cute, Sutty. Thank you.
It's really a blinkie, but I stopped it from blinking. Sorry Sutty, I love the button.
Foxy Lady made the little cheer leader you all have been looking at every time you visit here. In case I didn't say it before, thank you, Foxy, she's a real cutie pie.
A couple days ago Yarn Tomato surprised me with these two buttons. Don't you just love the pictures? She used a couple of my finished projects to make these. They're great, Donna. Thank you so much.
Today, I received this from Sutty Girl. She also used a picture from my completed projects. Talk about fast, I don't think I had this picture posted for more than an hour and look what she did! Wow.
Thank you Sutty Girl.
And, here's Sutty's latest creation for me. I've been renamed "Mad Hatter" at Crochetville.
Posted at 07:36 pm by Dot
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If you think I'm CRANKIN out the patterns, let me try to explain what's happening here.
I'll use the last 2 patterns as an example of what I'm calling a 2 for 1 process. I had an idea several weeks ago to design a hat with X's and O's in it. I don't know why...I just did. Well, anyway, X's are no problem to do and I like doing them, but O's are not as easy for me to figure out, so I tried to make O's by using a short chain and skipping stitches. Gave me more of a dash than an O, but what the heck, I had a title in mind so I kept it, I didn't think X's and Dashes sounded as good.
When I finished the X's and O's hat and tried it on my head, it came down over my eyes (sort of). So I thought that I'd try it again with hdc's instead of dc's to get a somewhat shorter version of this hat. I usually make a hat twice anyway to test the pattern for errors and make changes as I do the second one.
OK, here's where the 2 for 1 part comes in. I was following the pattern, testing it and writing it over so I'd find any mistakes and I guess the gold yarn didn't want to be a skully, it wanted to be a brimmed hat. So I just let it go and do it's own thing and VOILA! a new design and a 2 for 1 pattern.
So, there you have it. It's the yarns fault, not mine. I didn't plan on making a new hat, the yarn did it. I'm starting to think the yarn is possesed with the spirit of a designer passed.
Oh, now that's spooky. I was just kidding up until this point, but I just realized the yarn I'm using used to belong to a lady who died of cancer, and these hats are destined to be donated, in her name, to the cancer center she attended. Guess she's guiding my hand and she decided to help!
What's your spin on it?
Posted at 12:18 pm by Dot
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SASSY - CHILD
 
copyright © 09/07/04 Dot Matthews
Hat size: 19 - 19 1/2
Gauge: 3 hdc rows = 2" and 7 hdc sts=2" (approximately)
Materials: K hook; 3 oz ww yarn, completed hat weighs 2 oz.
Note 1: Beginning chain does NOT count as a stitch.
Note 2: Numbers in ( ) at end of rows depicts total number of stitches for that row.
Note 3: When joining rows, skip over beginning chain and join in first actual stitch.
ROW 1: ch 3, 12 hdc in 1st st. Join in first hdc. (12 sts)
ROW 2: ch 2, 2 hdc in ea st around. Join in first hdc. (24 sts)
ROW 3: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next st, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next st. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (36 sts)
ROW 4: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next 2 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 2 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (48 sts)
ROW 5: ch 2, 2 hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in next 3 sts, *2 hdc in next st, 1 hdc in next 3 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (60 sts)
ROW 6: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in st to the right of st just made - that's the last stitch of the previous row - *sk the next st, hdc in next st, hdc in the st just skipped. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 7: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 8: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 9: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, *sk 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 3. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (15 ch-3 spaces and 15 sc's)
ROW 10: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc over the ch-3 space, *sc in next sc, 3 sc over the next ch-3 space. Repeat from * around, join in the first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 11: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around. (60 sts)
ROW 12: ch 2, hdc in same st as join, 1 hdc in st to the right of st just made - that's the last stitch of the previous row - *sk the next st, hdc in next st, hdc in the st just skipped. Repeat from * around, join in first hdc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 13: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 14: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 15: WORK IN BACK LOOP ONLY FOR THIS ROUND: ch 1, TURN, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 4 sts *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 4 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (72 sts)
ROW 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (72 sts)
ROW 17: ch 1, TURN, 2 sc in first st, 1 sc in next 5 sts, *2 sc in next st, 1 sc in next 5 sts. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (84 sts)
ROW 18: ch 1, sc in same st as join and in ea st around, join in first sc. (84 sts)
ROW 19: ch 1, *sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next st. Repeat from * around, join in first sc. (96 sts)
ROW 20: sl st in ea st around, join in first sl st.
Fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 11:43 am by Dot
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Tuesday, September 07, 2004
X's and O's
 
copyright © 09/06/04 Dot Matthews
Materials:
J hook
ww yarn 2 - 3 ozs.
Note 1: beginning chain does not count as a stitch
Note 2: when joining, skip the beginning chain and join in first real stitch
Note 3: numbers in ( ) at end of rows depicts number of stitches for that row
ROW 1: ch 4, 12 dc's in 1st st. (12 sts)
ROW 2: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 2 dc in each st around. join in first dc. (24 sts)
ROW 3: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next st next st, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next st) around. Join in first dc. (36 sts)
ROW 4: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next 2 sts, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 2 sts) around. Join in 1st dc. (48 sts)
ROW 5: ch 3, 2 dc in same st as join, 1 dc in next 3 sts, (2 dc in next st, 1 dc in next 3 sts) around. Join in 1st dc. (60 sts)
ROW 6: Ch 3, dc in same st as join, dc in st to the right of the join (that's in the last dc of the previous row) sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st (that's the stitch you just skipped - this forms a crossed dc ), now working forward again, (sk next dc, dc in next st, dc in skipped st) around. Join in 1st dc. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 7: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 1 sc in next st and in each st around. Join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 8: Repeat row 7 (60 sts)
ROW 9: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3, (sk 3 sts, sc in next st, ch 3) around. Join in 1st sc. (15 ch-3 spaces)
ROW 10: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc in next ch-3 space (sc in next st, 3 sc in next ch-3 space) around. Join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
ROW 11: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 1 sc in next st and in each st around. Join in first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 12: repeat row 6. (30 crossed stitch groups)
ROW 13: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next st and in each st around. Join in frist sc. (60 sts)
ROW 14: repeat row 13. (60 sts)
ROW 15: ch 1, sc in same st as join, ch 3 (sk 3, sc in next st ch 3) around. Join in first sc. (15 ch-3 spaces)
ROW 16: ch 1, sc in same st as join, 3 sc in next ch-3 space (sc in next st, 3 sc in next ch-3 space) around. Join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
Posted at 08:52 pm by Dot
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Sunday, September 05, 2004
I don't know if you're interested or not, but I do have another blog where I post just my patterns. It's a lot easier to find a pattern if you're looking for something in particular. The front page always stays the same except when I add new patterns to the site. Then I add a picture of the new hat with a link to the pattern. Go on, check it out. It's called Patterns by Dot. Yes, I know, I have no imagination at all.
Posted at 01:48 pm by Dot
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Wednesday, September 01, 2004
I made it to the retirement party yesterday and she had quite a turnout. I'm so happy for her, she's been wanting to retire for a long time and now she's finally done it. She loved the gift and it looked really cute on her. She said she can use it in her travels to Europe. She's from Poland and plans to visit her homeland now that she has time to spend with family and friends. Good luck, Eva. I am glad I got to know you.
Posted at 08:29 pm by Dot
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Monday, August 30, 2004
PUFF N STUFF
a bucket hat
copyright © 08/29/04 Dot Matthews
 
K hook
ww yarn
gauge: 6 rows sc = 2" and 7 sc stitches = 2"
Specialty St:
PUFF ST: (yo, insert hook in designated st, yo draw up a loop) 4 times. there will be 9 loops on hook. Now yo, draw through all 9 loops. Puff Stitch made.
Note 1: do not join rows unless instructed to do so.
Note 2: use a marker to indicate the beginning stitch of the row, move the marker as you complete the row.
Note 3: the beginning ch 3 counts as the first dc
Note 4: numbers in ( ) at end of rows indicates number of stitches for the row.
ROW 1: ch 2, 12 sc in 1st sc. (12 sts)
ROW 2: 2 sc in each st around. (24 sts)
don't forget to place a marker in the first stitch
ROW 3: 1 sc in each st around (24 sts)
ROW: 4: (2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next st) around (36 sts)
ROW 5: 1 sc in ea st around (36 sts)
ROW 6: (2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 2 sts) around (48 sts)
ROW 7: 1 sc in ea st around (48 sts)
ROW 8: (2 sc in 1st st, 1 sc in next 3 sts) around (60 sts)
ROW 9: 1 sc in ea st around (60 sts)
ROW 10: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 11: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 12: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 13: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 14: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 15: repeat row 9 (60 sts)
ROW 16: sc in each st around, join with a sl st to first sc. (60 sts)
ROW 17: ch 3, puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st) around, join in beg ch 3. (30 puff sts and 30 dc)
ROW 18: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in ea st around, join in 1st sc. (60 sts)
ROW 19: ch 1, sc in same st as join, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next st, (sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next st) join in 1st st. (75 sts)
ROW 20: ch 1, TURN, work in back loops only for this round, 1 sc in ea st around, join in 1sc (75 sts)
ROW 21: ch 3, TURN, Puff st in next st (dc in next st, puff st in next) around to last 2 sts, sk 1 st, puff st in last st. Join in beg ch 3. (37 puffs and 37 dc)
ROW 22: ch 1, sc in ea st around, join in 1st sc. (74 sts)
ROW 23: repeat row 22 (74 sts)
ROW 24: ch 3, puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next) around. join in top of beg ch 3. (37 puffs and 37 dc's)
ROW 25: ch 1, reverse sc around, join in first st. (74 sts) Fasten off and weave in ends
Posted at 02:03 pm by Dot
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Friday, August 27, 2004
  
copyright © 08/27/04 Dot Matthews
Materials
4 oz ww yarn
I hook
Specialty St:
PUFF ST: (yo, insert hook in designated st, yo draw up a loop) 3 times. there will be 7 loops on hook. Now yo, draw through 6 loops, yo draw through remaining 2 loops. Puff Stitch made.
Note 1: pattern is worked with every other stitch a puff stitch, example=dc, puff, dc, puff, dc, puff.
Note 2: numbers at the end of the row in ( ) indicate number of stitches for the row.
Note 3: beginning ch 3 counts as first dc
ROW 1: Ch 4, 11 dc in 1st ch, join in 3rd chain. (12 sts)
ROW 2: Ch 3, puff st in same st as join, (dc and puff st in next st) around. Join in top of beg ch. (24 sts-12 puff st and 12 dc) Note: refer to specialty stitch instructions at beginning of pattern to see how to make a puff stitch
ROW 3: ch 3, puff st in same st as join, (dc in next st, puff st and dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc and puff st in next st,) around. Join in top of beg ch. (36 sts - 18 puff sts and 18 dc)
ROW 4: ch 3, puff st in same st as join, (dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc and puff st in next st) around. (48 sts - 24 puff sts and 24 dc)
ROW 5: ch 3, puff st in same st as join. dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st.
Puff st and dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st, puff st in next st.
(dc and puff st in next st, dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st.
puff st and dc in next st, puff st in next, dc in next st, puff st in next st.) around. join in top of beg ch.
(60 sts - 30 puffs and 30 dc)
ROW 6: ch 3, puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st) around. Join in top of beg ch 3.
(60 sts - 30 puffs and 30 dc)
ROW 7: repeat row 6
ROW 8: repeat row 6
next row is a decrease row
ROW 9: ch 3, puff st in next st, dc in next st,
sk next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st, puff st in next st,
(sk next st, dc in next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st,
sk next st, puff st in next st, dc in next st, puff st in next st) around, ending with puff st in last st, remember to keep every other stitch a puff stitch. Join in top of beg ch 3. (46 sts - 23 puffs and 23 dc)
ROW 10: ch 3, puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st) around. Join in top of beg ch 3. (46 sts - 23 puffs and 23 dc)
ROW 11: ch 3, puff st in same st as join, (dc and puff st in next st) around. Join in top of beg ch 3. (92 sts - 46 puffs and 46 dc)
ROW 12: ch 3, puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st) 4 times, *dc and puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st )5 times, * repeat from * around, ending with dc and puff st in next st, (dc in next st, puff st in next st) 2 times. Join in top of beg ch 3. (100 sts - 50 puffs and 50 dc) Fasten off and weave in ends.
Posted at 10:22 pm by Dot
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